These memoirs have been stalled here for months because of a failure of
memory. I’d start thinking about these annual cross-country trips
and get bogged down trying to recall how many there were, when the
first one was, which year it was that we took the northern route
instead of Route 66… I give up. In the interest of getting on
with my life story, I’ll tell this little part of it as best I can.
I
think the first trip was in 1955, between seventh and eighth grades
when I was eleven, after Mama sold the sundries store and we moved back
in with Granny (my aunt Alice) in Wichita. I don’t remember
its being then. I’ve deduced that this was the first one. I
remember Mama making me take my dog Spooky to the pound because, she
said, we couldn’t take him with us. I also recall Spooky living
with us there at Granny’s and waking me up in the mornings for
school. That could only have been in seventh grade. It
doesn’t make sense that there would have been any of those trips while
Mama was running the store, because she wouldn’t have had the free time
for it. Therefore it seems likely that the first trip was in
1955, after she had worked in the Wichita schools for one school term.
Mama wanted to go visit the family she’d left behind. I remember my
mother as having many sentimental attachments, not only to people but
also to objects. The people she had left in California when we left
there with my first step-father Jim Henry included a younger brother in
Sacramento, his wife and two kids, and two sisters in Redlands
(Southern California, near San Bernardino) and their extended families.
I had cousins out there, both first cousins and their kids, my second
cousins. There were about a half dozen girls within a few years of my
age in the bunch. I wanted to see them again, but I wanted to take my
dog with me. Mama wouldn’t have it. I loved Spooky. As we started
the trip, I was bummed out about leaving Spooky, leaving him forever.
The only consolation I had was that the people at the pound said he
would soon find a new home because he was so beautiful, friendly, and
well-trained.
We
had everything loaded in the car, and stopped at the pound to drop off
Spooky on our way out of town. Now, as I think back on how the
car was packed, I’m not sure that my mother intended for us to go back
to Wichita at the end of that summer. She didn’t leave anything
important at Granny’s house. Our Philco TV and household goods
were stacked in the back seat and on the floor back there, making a
level platform even with the backs of the front seats, with all our
blankets spread on top to make a bed and play space for me. The
trunk of the old dark blue ’48 Chevy coupe was packed with our clothes
and other items. (It looked like this one, except we couldn’t
afford whitewall tires.)
The first part of the trip was grim and tense. Mama may have felt
badly about making me leave the dog, but I don’t think so.
Probably she was convinced that it just wouldn’t do to take him and she
was pissed at me for not seeing it her way. When her mind
was made up, that was all there was to it. She preferred driving
at night and stopping in a motel during the days, so we had left
Wichita in the afternoon. I rode in the passenger seat until I
got bored, then climbed onto my nest in the back, read for a while and
played Chinese checkers against myself until I fell asleep.
Sometime during that night, the tension was broken with laughter.
We were going through some small town with brick streets and hit a big
bump at a railroad crossing. I was bounced about halfway down
into the passenger seat, and my Chinese checkers were spilled.
Abruptly awakened and shaken, I wailed, “I lost my marbles,” and Mama
and I both cracked up.
Details of these trips just run together in my mind. We went four
or five times, I think, both while we lived in Kansas and then later
after we moved to Texas. It was our summer routine, made possible
because my mother was cooking in school cafeterias and we were both out
for the summer. All except for one return trip, we went the
“southern route” on Route 66. That one exception was when we
returned via Rabbit Ears Pass in Colorado and stopped to visit old
friends of my mother’s and some of my father’s cousins. Whichever
way we went, the roadside monotony was broken by Burma Shave
signs: “In this world… of toil and sin… your head goes
bald… but not your chin… Burma Shave.” “She kissed the
hairbrush… by mistake… she thought it was… her husband jake…
Burma Shave.”
Route
66 across Arizona and New Mexico was lined with tourist traps.
They were advertised with little signs that said things like “Only 384
miles to Jackrabbit Trading Post,” or “Rattlesnake Trading Post, 455
miles.” Given the buildup, I wanted to stop at all of them.
Mama didn’t want to stop at any. This was when I learned the
phrase, “tourist trap.” Mama spoke of them scornfully and said
they were just there to get our money and weren’t worth our time to
stop. I think it took me several years, but I finally nagged her
into stopping at the biggies: The THING, Jackrabbit, and
Rattlesnake. Little America wasn’t there yet, then.
I don’t recall which trading post we were at when I got this shot of
the “Old Chief” beating on his drum and chanting through a PA
system. His garb is all wrong for the tribes indigenous to that
area, and the same tourist trap had some Navajo women selling their
blankets and rugs.
I started my rock collection at one of those desert trading
posts. We had stopped for lunch and I was browsing the gift shop
as Mama finished up, paid the bill and used the rest room. I was
fascinated by a basket full of selenite roses on the counter.
Mama came over and started to drag me away, saying we couldn’t afford
to buy a rock. The man gave me one, valued at 25 cents. I was thrilled.
Mama did let me buy post cards. Picture post cards sold then at
six for a quarter in most cafes and gift shops. I was allowed one
quarter a day while we were on the road, and over those years collected
a cigar box full of post cards, both the scenic ones and cartoon
jokes. The post card collection had started on our trip from
California to Arkansas with my step-father Jim. One of those first joke
cards was a poem: Texas ain’t so big, and across it ain’t so
far. I went across from border to border, and only wore out one
car.”
We didn’t see my Uncle Scotty (Harrell Scott, the baby of that
family, my mother’s only younger sibling) and Aunt Ella and cousins Don
and Nancy in Sacramento on any of those trips. Mama and Scotty
were not as close as she was with her sisters in Redlands. That
was where we always ended up, staying with Aunty Pat (Nora Howard
Gavin, whom everyone called Pat) at her little stone bungalow in town
part of the time, but mostly out in San Timoteo Canyon at Clock Ranch,
the orange grove where Unkie, my uncle Hubert Hendon, was the
foreman. Unkie’s wife, Aunty Sis, was my mother’s sister Flora,
who hated that name. All her siblings just called her Sis, the
same way they called their eldest sister Alice, “Mom,” and I called her
Granny.
I used to walk through the orange grove with Unkie as he went on his
rounds opening or closing irrigation gates. He carried a hoe all
the time. There was a hook welded to the back of its head for
operating the gates, and the blade of the hoe was sharpened for
decapitating rattlesnakes. One of those summers, I got heat
exhaustion and went temporarily blind. After that, Mama kept me
in the house during the hot part of the days, and to occupy me, Aunty
Sis let me use their old black and gold Royal manual typewriter and a
typing course book. That’s when I started learning to touch
type: fjf jfj kdk dkd tyt yty uru rur lsl sls p;p qaq ghg hgh
endlessly.
There was a swing hanging from a big old pepper tree in the yard, and I
spent hours in it seeing how high I could go. With my cousin
Sharron Hendon, who is about three years younger than I, I would throw
rocks at the lizards sunning themselves on trees, trying to knock their
tails off. The dismembered tails would keep wiggling for a long
time after being detached. Later, we would keep an eye out for
those lizards and watch as their tails grew back. In the evenings
when the lawn sprinklers were on, tarantulas would come out for a
drink. Unkie caught one under a cottage cheese carton for me and
tied a string around its middle so I could lead it around on a
leash. Mama freaked, so Unkie turned it loose.
Among the things I took away with me when we returned east from those
visits were a four-foot-long seed pod from a palm tree, and a
radiosonde that had fallen from the sky into the orange grove with a
collapsed weather balloon. Unkie let me take it apart, and then
let me take the collection of instruments home for show and tell at
school.
Sis
and Unkie had four grown daughters: Dorothy, Iris House, Leta
Willunga and Donna MacIntosh. Iris lived in Redlands with her
five daughters, the eldest of whom, Linda, was a little older than
I. Leta lived with her husband and his family on a dairy
farm outside Redlands and was just starting her family. Donna was
recently married, and lived in Seal Beach. As often as I could
talk Mama into it, we’d go into Redlands for an evening with Iris and
her girls or Aunty Pat.
That was my first taste of tacos. Mama had conservative tastes in
food, or else her xenophobia extended to cuisine. She didn’t
trust foreigners or foreign foods. On the evenings we stayed with
Aunty Pat, we’d go to a Taco Tico and get a dozen tacos for some
ridiculously low price. Iris’s tacos were better, homemade, and
she taught me how to make them. I still do it just as I learned
then. Another rare treat was going to Mel’s drive-in late at
night on the way back to the ranch, just Mama and me, for hot fudge
sundaes.
The year that we took the northern route home and stopped for a visit
with Chloe Day and her family, I got another bit of culinary
novelty: pizza.
Chloe
and her late husband Tom had been friends of my parents before I was
born. Chloe had about five or six kids, all older than I except
for one girl who was younger (pictured here with me displaying my souvenir pennant at Red Rocks
Park). Most still lived at home, but had jobs. The house
was run quite differently from my mother’s home. Mama thought it
proper for the whole family to sit down to meals together. Only
reluctantly did she convert to sitting with TV trays in front of the tube, instead of at the
kitchen table.
Chloe’s family was seldom all together at the same time. She’d
cook up big pots of stew or beans or pasta, and either keep them warm
or let the kids warm stuff up when they came in. Some evenings,
someone would bring in a big pizza. Yum. It quickly became
my favorite food. Chloe’s more relaxed lifestyle became my
practice when I started running my own household, too.
That Chevy was a wonderful car, practically indestructible… well Mama
did total one on a dirt road in Kansas, by flipping and rolling it into
a wheat field, but as long as she kept it on the highway, it went like
a charm. Cars were simple then. Daddy had taught me how to
adjust the carburetor, and how to pour water over the glass bowl on the
fuel pump if it vapor locked from overheating. Mama and I
together could change a flat tire. That’s about all we needed to
know.

One trip, outside Needles, California in hundred-and-ten-degree heat,
we got stuck with a vapor lock and no water. They had been
charging a dollar a gallon for water at our last stop (when gasoline
was only about 19 cents a gallon) and Mama had decided against filling
the canvas bag that rode dangling from our front bumper. A
trucker stopped to help us, and he didn’t have any water, either.
He asked if we had any oranges or grapefruit. We had an
orange. He cut it in half, handed me one piece, and pushed the
other one down over the fuel pump bowl. Car started right up.
This last photo was taken on one of the last road trips, and maybe the
last one that Mama and I made together. We had already moved to
Texas then, because I had my chihuahua/manchester terrier mix, Button,
with me. She’s standing up on that sign post beside me there. Maybe Mama realized the pain she’d caused me by making
me leave Spooky behind, or maybe it was just because Button was a
smaller dog. For whatever reason, she let Button go with us.

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