Month: February 2003

  • How I spent my first Saturn return
    (Spring, 1974)


    Part Two:  work


    (This follows Part One: sex.)


    I had two jobs.  On weekdays I worked for the State of Alaska, in a federally-funded program I had helped get off the ground, The New Start Center.  Our job was to help ex-offenders return to life after incarceration.  My job title there was Clerk-Typist III and those who planned the Center envisioned it as a secretary’s job without the secretary’s pay.


    It is true that I did all the clerical work my boss and our clients required, including preparing resumés for the clients’ job searches.  In addition to that, I spent most of my time doing the work of a job developer, finding employers willing to hire ex-cons.  The rest of my work on that job ranged from being an advocate for the ex-cons with social service agencies, getting them clothing, housing, whatever they needed to resume a “normal” life on the outside, to counseling them and driving them to interviews.


    That was my second job.  My first job in Alaska was “just” a weekend job:  for forty-eight hours each weekend I was the sole staff member on duty at Open Door Klinic, a free clinic serving the medical and social service needs of indigent street people.  The nurse practitioner and social worker had weekends off.  I answered the crisis hotline, did first-aid when necessary, kept the coffee pot filled, trained and supervised a few part-time student volunteers, and dealt with whatever came through the door.  Late one Sunday night, one particular walk-in client rocked my world, shook up my reality big-time.


    Craig was co-facilitator with Theresa of the Family Rap therapy group where I was learning how to spill my guts.  He had it so together, I thought.  He “worked” in group every session, getting it rolling, setting the scene for the rest of us to chime in and dump our own emotional baggage.  He’d start out kinda low-key, talking about whatever issues had been giving him a rough time.  Then he would move into talking about how he felt about things and on into nonverbally-enhanced expressions of his feelings, crying, screaming, emoting from deep in his gut.  When he had gotten it out he would listen attentively to everyone else.  He was good at picking up on the telling cues that indicated evasion, defense mechanisms and such, and he was quick to confront them.  Everyone there benefited from his expertise, his focus, his honesty and his insistence on our honesty.


    I was in my little fishbowl of an office tacked onto the front of the house, on the phone with one of my regular clients, using techniques learned from Craig to help her talk about her issues, when he walked in.  It was the first time I’d seen him there, first time except for a big overnight marathon group therapy session for New Start clients in one of the center’s conference rooms, that I’d seen Craig outside the regular group.  At first, I thought it was a social call.  Craig straightened me out fast.  He wasted no time getting down to business.


    He had walked out of Family House, left the residential heroin rehab program that had helped him put his life back together.  It had been his life for the two years that he was going through the program, and then after graduation he had gone to work for the foundation as a trainer and facilitator for three more years.  His bridges were now burnt; there was no going back.  He was there to talk it out with me.  He blew me away by telling me how impressed he was with how “together” I was… this, coming from my chief therapist and major role model, was wildly unanticipated, right out of left field.  If this man I looked up to and admired was looking up to me, coming for help, where did that leave me?  It threw me for a loop, more than any crisis I handled in my year at Open Door.


    As the day was dawning, after he’d done spilling his guts, he was helping me tidy up the Klinic for the day shift.  He said he needed a place to stay.  He had walked away from Family House with only the clothes he wore, and that was all he owned in the world.  I told him he could sleep on our couch until he completed the other arrangements he had been talking about.  I phoned home to let Charley and Hulk know we would have a houseguest.  Since they were both preparing to head out to their construction job, I gave Craig my key and the address.  He went one way, toward my little basement apartment near the Park Strip, and I went the other way, to another Monday at New Start Center.


    Few jobs in such similar fields (both “social service”) could differ as much from each other as those did.  At Open Door, it was casual dress.  We were urged to dress, talk and act as much like peers of our clients as we could.  Although it was officially forbidden, unofficially that injunction to blend in and mingle included smoking dope with those who hung around the Klinic.  There was an old pickup camper parked beside the building, and the man who trained me as his replacement introduced me to it and the little group of street people who used it regularly as a smoking room.  Once, when a Native man fresh in from the village reported our little dope circle to the Klinic’s director, my predecessor/trainer and I were called in for a conference with Kevin.  He asked if the man’s accusation was true.  My trainer denied it; I followed his lead.  Kevin excused us and life went on.


    The state job required a sociocultural tightrope walk.  Mike (my immediate boss, the Community Counselor) and I had to earn the trust of our convict clients and co-exist with the parole officers, bureaucrats and politicians above us in the office pecking order.  I also had to be able to make a good personal impression on the potential employers I approached on behalf of my clients.  I’d change out of my casual weekend wear of jeans and moccasin boots at the clinic on Monday morning and stuff them in my gym bag.  Then, in my trendy skirt or pants suit and my low-heel pumps or high-heel office boots, I’d walk a few blocks to the Center.  At the end of the day I’d walk two blocks to a health club, get into tights and leotard for a workout, and then back into the hippie clothes for the long walk home.  What with all that changing of metaphorical hats, the switching of roles, the subterfuge and institutional hypocrisy, I was having serious issues around the question of just who I was and what I was doing there.


    Every chance I got, I dove into my metaphysical studies.  My Tarot cards were always in my purse and I consulted them daily.  They kept telling me that I was in a period of transition and initiation.  They said everything was changing, but they were mute when it came to any clue as to what it was becoming.  That, I knew, would be up to me.  I wasn’t sure what I wanted to make of my life.  I pored over the books of Alice A. Bailey, of Dion Fortune and other metaphysical writers, looking for a clue.  I tried to get back into meditation as I had done in prison, but there was too little time and too much distraction.  I chased the Light.


    I was enamored of the concept of the work I was doing.  The work itself was another matter.  Crisis intervention put me in position to save lives, help people come back from the brink of suicide, find them shelter from abusive partners, help them express and work through their fears and despair.  In practice, the frustration of dealing with those, immersed in magical thinking, who expected me to wave my wand and make their troubles go away, was incredibly burdensome.  That disillusionment was at the core of the social service burnout we all experienced, and was our favorite topic for our venting sessions after the immediate business was disposed of at each Open Door staff meeting.


    New Start Center presented similar contrasts between the ideal and the actual.  It is all very well to talk about rehabilitation while reminding a prospective employer of his civic and social responsibility to provide opportunities for ex-offenders to go straight.  My own prison experience put me in a good position to empathize with my clients.  I knew how hard it is to start a new life, how impossible it is to resume the life that had been destroyed by incarceration.  What I hadn’t realized until I was there in that job was how potent a force psychological institutionalization is, how difficult it is for someone who has lived in enforced inactivity and submission to authority for years to become self-motivated and responsible.  The ex-cons were just as irrationally dependent on me to do the impossible as were my street-people clients at the Klinic.


    A couple of my professional-ex-convict social service colleagues and one of my female New Start clients (Carla, for whom I arranged with Catholic Charities for the purchase of a blender she needed to process her food due to a digestive problem) solved the existential dilemma for me.  The weather was warming up.  Days were lengthening gloriously.  Hulk and Charley were both making good wages building houses for the ex-convict-owned-and-operated Re-Construction, Inc.  I had decided that when my Open Door contract was up in June I would quit.  I had given my notice and we, the staff, had started interviewing potential replacements.  The state job paid better, and it would give me weekends off to spend with my two guys, who also had weekends off.  Then came the one-two punch.


    Mike, my boss, was out of the office.  A pair of ex-cons who had been involved in the formation of Re-Entry Concern Foundation, the parent corporation of the construction company, came into the office.  Both of them were involved in AA and Al-Anon.  She worked in social services not directly related to parole and probation, and volunteered at New Start, taking a lot of the driving and leg-work off my hands.  He, if memory serves, was a motivational speaker and did theft-prevention seminars for businesses, teaching them the tricks to watch out for.  Professional ex-convicts they were, as I said, and as I had become.


    Re-Con, as we called the foundation, also administered a fund that had been collected for us by the Jaycees at Palmer Correctional Center.  It’s purpose was to provide small emergency loans to ex-offenders who had urgent expenses related to their re-entry to society.  Mike and I had asked the Jaycees to help us with it after the incident with Carla, when she had been deprived of proper nutrition for several days after her release as we searched for a blender for her.


    My recall of the exact order and details of events is flawed.  There were some details I never learned.  What I do know is that the ex-con couple conned me, in Mike’s absence, into cutting them a check on the emergency fund account, which they somehow used or altered to clear out the entire account.  Then they disappeared.  The Re-Con con was their final act, apparently, on their way out of town.


    I felt absolutely sick when I learned what had happened.  Mike jumped into damage-control mode, covering his ass for the benefit of his state superiors and trying to reassure the Jaycees that if they continued to contribute to the fund their money would be safe.  My buddies in the therapy group, which was being facilitated by Theresa with some help from others of us older members after Craig’s departure, helped me work through my shame and chagrin at being conned out of the cons’ money.  It was a big storm for a little while.  Then it passed.


    Carla’s husband was one of Charley’s buddies from PCC.  We saw them socially occasionally after they found housing and work.  Carla and her husband were heroin addicts and were trying to stay off the junk.  Carla, a former prostitute, had joined a new women’s therapy group that spun off from the original Family Rap group.  She had my home phone number and called me sometimes to vent her frustrations, talk about her cravings for heroin, and get reinforcement for her efforts to stay straight.  It was obviously a struggle for her.


    One night she showed up at our apartment.  She asked for a little bit of weed, just something to make it easier to do without the junk.  Hulk, Charley and I had some, so we gave her about half of our stash, enough for maybe a joint, or a few little bong hits.  It tided her over, and when next I saw her she was okay, still straight and feeling more optimistic.


    That incident had been weeks in the past, was well behind me, faded to insignificance, when Mike came into the office one morning and confronted me anxiously:  “Did you give Carla some dope?!?”  Mike and his wife Mary and I had smoked dope together, so I had no reason to deny it.  I admitted that I had, and explained the circumstances.  Mike blew up at me:  “How could you be so stupid?!?”


    Carla’s parole officer had paid her a home visit and observed, sitting on a window sill, a little row of styrofoam cups with marijuana seedlings in them.  When he asked Carla where she had gotten the seeds, she said they had come from me.  That much wasn’t true.  The wee bit of pot I gave her was well-manicured and seedless, but what did that matter in the greater scheme of things?


    Following on the heels of my being conned out of the ex-cons’ emergency fund, it was the end of my career as a professional ex-convict.  I was allowed to resign.  That delayed the start of my unemployment benefits for six weeks, but kept an embarrassing firing off my record.  And life went on….



  • It’s winter again!


    After weeks of cold rain, just far enough above freezing to be wet but not warm, and no sunshine, last night the clouds cleared out.  The temps dropped into the teens, Fahrenheit.  Today, the sun is shining.


    The surfaces of the driveway and roads are slick new ice with a light dusting of the frost that condensed out of the air when the clouds moved out.  Greyfox‘s new used car has two of its tires frozen into the puddle in our driveway.  It would have been worse, but he went out yesterday evening and backed it and the other car up to the end of the driveway, out of the deepest part of the puddle.


    It’s no problem, his car being frozen in.  He’s in Talkeetna today, in my car Streak, back at his old stand–first time this year.  His car is going to need some serious work before it is roadworthy.  Not surprisingly, the shimmy wasn’t a bad CV joint, as Jack told him it was, but is a combination of tires and alignment.   Also, when the mechanics inspected it, they found a cracked axle.  He will try to earn enough money to get it fixed before the tourist season begins, or else he will bend a little and suggest we put it on my credit card.  Then he will drive it back to town to be repaired.  It will add another $1,000+ to the price of his “great deal”, that bargain he bought, taking the final cost well over the bluebook price.


    I do not feel at all triumphant about having been “right” about the deal, the dealer, and the car.  I have not said, not even once, “I told you so.”  I don’t have to.  I can see by his face that Greyfox feels as sick about the whole thing as I do.  I just wish he’d had some better answers for me when I asked him what he had learned from the experience.  Some people never learn.  I’ve been one of those people when it comes to the men in my life.


    I have, however, learned a thing or two about living in the subarctic woods.  Today, after I picked myself up from a slip in the yard, I shifted to the flat-footed gait we call the Eskimo walk.  The steps are shorter, but you end up covering more ground faster than you would if you were continually picking yourself up off the ice.  My usual natural gait, the one I learned as a kid, goes heel-toe with long strides.  I cover more ground more painlessly with the little waddling steps I learned by watching the Inupiat ladies.


    I headed out to the end of the cul de sac with the thought of taking off through the woods toward the railroad tracks on a little game trail there.  I thought this would be a good time for it, with no big clumps of snow and ice hanging overhead in the trees, and the snow pack having been knocked down by the rain.


    Two things deterred me.  One, there was still a lot of punchy snow on that trail.  “Punchy” is a term I learned from dog mushers.  It means crusty snow through which feet, paws and hooves punch.  Depending on the depth of the snow and the cold hardness of the crust, you can get either a boot full of granular snow, or cuts and bruises from the icy crust.  The tracks of every creature who had trod that trail during the warmer days are now frozen hard, an icy obstacle course.


    I might have tried it anyway, staying in the deeper tracks, except that two sets of those tracks belonged to moose:  a big set and a small set.  That’s mama moose’s track in the shot at left, just below and right of center.  Another of the things I’ve learned is to avoid little moose when there’s a big one around.  In its “right mind”, when a moose is just being a moose, it will move placidly away at a human’s approach.  When she’s got a baby with her, a mama moose is never in her placid right mind.

  • The sweetest ?!? valentine


    I’ve been having some rough and stressful times recently.  Not the least of it has been trying to stay on a strict, boring diet through it all.  All my life I’ve found comfort in the sugar high, but I must stop that–it has gotten much too dangerous for me.


    Greyfox, the sweet old fart, understands addictions.  It took a long time for him to grasp that my carbohydrate addiction was as big a thing to me as his alcoholism is for him.  I do believe he finally got it.


    In a pretty little note card decorated with hearts, he penned these words to me: 


    Roses are red,
    Farters are rude.
    Hang in there, Sweetie,
    Eschew toxic food.


    Isn’t he the sweetest thing, my poet?

  • One last brownie binge


    This happened in ’77.  I had lost what would eventually turn out to have been my last job working for someone else….


    That job was more tolerable than most. Working in a warehouse was something I found preferable to the recent string of office and public contact jobs.  The hourly wage was nothing to shout about, was peanuts compared to what the Teamsters, the union warehousemen, were making.  My job title was inventory control/recouper.  Once a shift, I had to walk the warehouse aisles and note any empty slots.  The rest of the time, I cleaned up the messes the warehousemen made. 


    Each shift had two janitors who swept the floors and picked up broken pallets or crushed cases of merchandise.  They brought the damaged stuff to me, back in one corner of the warehouse, and I picked the bent or burst cans or boxes from the ones that were intact.  The damaged goods went to the food bank (except for snack items that went to the break room), and the good stuff I boxed up for sale.  


    This was a grocery warehouse, and besides serving local supermarkets our trucks supplied all the Trans-Alaska Oil Pipeline construction camps. It was boom time, and the place was busy enough for two shifts a day. I talked the management into letting me work swing shift because it made life easier for me. My job was unique: no one doing that work on the other shift, so that there was always work piled up waiting for me when I got there.


    One time I got to work and found a big pallet box about half full of crushed cans of evaporated milk, burst bags of dog kibble, and jars of Tang drink mix. It was all cemented together in a single mass, and went to the dumpster that way.  One of the warehousemen liked Cheez-its.  Once or twice a week, I’d find a case of them crushed, with a big boot print on it… of course.  Hitting it with a forklift would have done too much damage to his crackers.  They reserved the forklift treatment for the really messy things.  I know the damage was not all accidental.


    The work was physically exhausting, and there was some psychological stress associated with being the only woman in the building other than a few secretaries upstairs in the offices on day shift.  I never saw them, just heard that they were there.  The Teamsters seemed to resent my presence.  Maybe they were a little hesitant to scratch their balls or tell a dirty joke with me around.  I don’t know why, but they liked to play chicken with me as I worked, zipping to within millimeters of me on their motorized pallet jacks and forklifts.


    I got the janitors to show me how to use a pallet jack, and then went to the manager and got permission to use one.  Until I did that, I always had to track down a janitor to move a pallet for me.  It was more work than just moving it myself, and it wasted the janitor’s time, but the stupid Teamsters were deathly afraid a non-union woman would take their jobs, I guess.  They had to let me do it, because management said so and nothing in union rules prohibited it.  But they saw to it that I got the pallet jack with the defective electrical system.  I made it work.


    Then I got sick. The fibromyalgia was still undiagnosed, but I had it!  I also had asthma, allergic rhinitis, hypoglycemic nausea and headaches, “arthritis” (almost certainly fibro, but who knew?) and other autoimmune symptoms.  My physician, an internist because at the time I didn’t know any better, gave me four prescriptions: one for headaches, one for nausea, an anti-inflammatory for the “arthritis”, and another pill for the asthma and hay fever.  He was trying to pick off symptoms without zeroing in on their causes.


    I went home, took my first dose of each kind of pill, and had seizures.  The aftermath of that was pure Hell.  I now recognize it as a fairly typical, although severe, fibromyalgia flareup.  My job was gone after the first few days.  There was no one else to take up the slack, so they had to replace me.


    I decided to stay away from doctors, one of the most beneficial decisions I’ve ever made.  Charley started bringing me books on natural healing.  One of them, by Adele Davis, clued me that many of my symptoms were related to hypoglycemia:  low blood sugar.  Then I got Saccharine Disease by T.L.Cleave, and Sugar Blues by William Dufty, and learned the somewhat counterintuitive fact that LOW blood sugar is caused by too much dietary sugar, and that the disorder is widespread in our society and extremely destructive.


    As long as there was sugar in the house, I’d eat it.  I tried and failed several times to eliminate just the refined carbohydrates from my diet, not yet aware of my sensitivity to all wheat/gluten.  Then, in desperation, I persuaded Charley to go on the diet with me, and we cleaned out every offending food (of which I was then aware) from the cupboards.  There weren’t many left by then.


    What there was included baking chocolate, white flour, and sugar, along with some cereals, canned fruit in syrup, etc.  I bagged it all up and asked Charley to go give the bag to a neighbor.  He took it, but he knew someone he thought needed the food more than our neighbors did–as if anyone NEEDS that junk.  He told me he gave it away, but he really just put it in the back of our car to wait for his next trip into town.


    He was gone somewhere the next day, but the car was there.  I was working in the garden when I got the scent of chocolate on the breeze.  I followed my nose to the car and found the bag of goodies.  Feeling sneaky and oh-so-clever, I took them inside and baked a batch of brownies.  By the time he got home, I’d eaten every one and cleaned up the evidence.  Then, of course, I confessed.


    The binge was a setback to my recovery, but it brought home to Charley and to me the depth of my addiction, the strength of the hold the carbs had on me.  That was more than a quarter of a century ago. Until just a few months ago, my every attempt to kick the junk food habit would fail within a few months because of the cravings.  It was not until I started treating my food addictions like any other substance addiction that I would be able to relieve the cravings that drove me to those self-destructive binges.


    If I had gone on attempting to defeat the addictions with behavioral modification and various therapeutic approaches based on the myth that it’s all in the mind, that compulsive eating comes from emotional needs, I’d probably still be bingeing.  Thank you, Dr. Gant.  As long as I can keep my catecholamine and serotonin levels stable, I think I can resist the brownies.  Yesterday, I was within a mile or so of the second-best pizza in Alaska, and I resisted.


    P.S.  Xanga’s not being good to me today, and I suppose it’s not just me.  Todd tells me the Xanga gods said it was router trouble at their ISP.  Ah, well….  I have managed, through indirection and chicanery, to post twice already, although the second one came out without any paragraphing.  This one is meant to replace that one, since xTools wouldn’t let me edit it.  Here goes nothing….

  • First, a few responses to comments:  another_button asked if I will be there to photograph the Idiatrod start or restart.  The ceremonial start is in Anchorage, which is a CITY,
    bad enough all by itself, but also a hundred miles away and crowded on
    Iditarod day.  Not me!  All I know up to now about the
    restart location is that it will be north of the Alaska Range
    somewhere.  I’ll be watching on TV.

    Several of you were as puzzled or bemused as we were at the potatoes
    we found scattered at the waterhole.  I have no
    explanation–sorry.  In this neighborhood some things are hard to
    figure… go figure.

    I moved in here at the computer early this morning when Doug got up
    for something, and forced him to content himself with the PS2. 
    Greyfox was asleep, or he’d probably be pestering me to let him sit
    down here.  Until very recently, he didn’t like this machine
    much.  He blogged a bit, read a few sites, checked his email and
    sent a few fan letters to his favorite authors.  That didn’t take
    up much time and Doug and I were duly grateful.

    Now the old fart has discovered totse, the Temple of the Screaming
    Electron.  He posts on jillions of threads at a number of
    boards.  He has apparently found his own little niche in
    cyberspace.  Now I am the one who spends the least time on the
    computer here.  That sucks, but I need to sleep sometime.  I
    hope that Greyfox’s “temple” begins to pall soon and the old
    guy gets back to his crossword puzzles and trashy novels.

    This morning I got around to a few places on my SIR list, and spent
    some more time at the Iditarod website.  I had been hoping
    for some word on where the race will start.  What I found was the mushers’ biography page
    Wow… learn something new every day.  I learned that I know more
    of the mushers than I thought I did.  A number of the photos there
    are familiar faces, people I’ve seen at the lodge or at the spring,
    maybe knew their first names but didn’t realize they were mushers, or
    that they were going to be running the Iditarod this
    year.

    One of this year’s rookie mushers, Lance Barve, is a guy I got to
    know when his father, who did all the printing for my mailorder
    business before I lived on the power grid and could do my own printing,
    was out running the Iditarod.  That left Lance and his wife and
    his mom to run the print shop.  On one of those visits to their
    shop, Lance’s dad Lavon was missing.  He’d gone off the
    trail out there somewhere and everyone was gathered around the CB
    radio, hoping for news.  He was okay, but that delay ruined one of
    his best chances ever at a money finish.  Lance grew up on sleds,
    and has been in the Jr. Iditarod several times.  He’s a nice guy,
    too.

    I will not, however, be rooting for him, unless I just end up
    rooting for all of them.   I don’t know who’s my favorite
    this year.  I always like old Charlie Boulding because he’s such a
    maverick, the irascible old coot.  Then there is Dee Dee,
    the sentimental favorite.  No one ever expects a rookie to win the
    race, but if one could it would probably be Cali King.  Her
    father, Jeff, has won it a few times, and Cali has done well in Jr.
    Iditarod.

    Ah, well, in a month or so, this year’s race will be history, and it’s going into the history books with an asterisk, fershure.

  • Iditarod

    Eighteen days from now the 2003 Iditarod Trail Sled Dog Race will
    begin on 4th Avenue (AKA “skidrow”) in Anchorage.  It is never an
    easy race, either for the organizers, the mushers, or the dogs. 
    This year’s bizarre warm weather has created new challenges.

    One of the things the world knows (or thinks it knows) about Alaska
    is that we have an annual dog sled race along the Iditarod Trail
    from Anchorage to Nome.  But the Iditarod Trail doesn’t go from
    Anchorage to Nome, and neither does the race; and as any
    musher or fan will tell you, it’s not a dog SLED race.  It’s the
    dogs (and their mushers) that do the running–it is a sled DOG
    race.

    The Iditarod National Historic Trail,
    administered by the U.S. Bureau of Land Management, is a network
    of over 2,300 miles of trails, named after an Athabaskan village
    which became a gold rush boom town.  Part of the race
    traverses part of that system of trails.

    This year, the exact route of the race is as yet
    unknown.   The trail committee is looking for a suitable
    location for the restart (more on that “restart” business later),
    someplace where there is some snow.  One of my favorite local
    mushers, Martin Buser, had a wonderful, funny description of trail conditions in today’s Anchorage Daily News.

    When Joe Redington, Sr. came up with the idea for this long-distance
    race, he was inspired to tie it in with the heroic serum run that took
    diphtheria serum from Anchorage to the little town of Nome in the far
    north.  The diagnosis of diphtheria was made on January 21, 1925,
    by Dr. Curtis Welch.  He sent telegraph messages to Anchorage,
    Fairbanks, Juneau and Seward.  The only serum in the territory
    (this was long before Statehood) was 300,000 units in
    Anchorage…. 

    “At Anchorage, Dr. Beeson packed the serum in a cylinder, which he
    wrapped in an insulating quilt. The whole parcel was then tied up in
    canvas for further protection. The parcel left Anchorage by train on
    Monday, January 26, in charge of conductor Frank Knight of the Alaska
    Railroad. It was at 11 p.m. on Tuesday that the train reached Nenana
    and Knight turned over the parcel to the first driver, William “Wild
    Bill” Shannon.

    Shannon carried the serum 52 miles to Tolovana, where he handed it
    over to Dave Green. Green carried it 31 miles to Manley and handed it
    over to Johnny Folger. Folger went the 28 miles to Fish Lake. Sam
    Joseph picked it up there and carried it 67 miles to Tanana. Titus
    Nickoli carried it 34 miles to Kallands and Dave Corning carried it 24
    miles to Nine Mile. Edgar Kalland picked it up at Nine Mile and went 30
    miles to Kokrines and Harry Pitka carried it another 30 miles to Ruby.
    Billy McCarty carried it 28 miles to Whiskey Creek and turned it over
    to Edgar Nollner, who carried it to Galena. George Nollner
    carried  it from Galena to Bishop Mountain, 18 miles. Charlie
    Evans went the 30 miles to Nulato and Tommy Patsy went the next 36
    miles to Kaltag. At Kaltag, Jack Screw picked it up and took it 40
    miles to Old Woman. Victor Anagick carried it 34 miles to Unalakleet
    and Myles Gonangnan carried it 40 miles to Shaktoolik. Henry Ivanoff
    started from Shaktoolik to Golovin with the serum.

    Leonhard
    Seppala left Nome intending to rest at Nulato and return with the
    serum. But Seppala met Gonangnan at Shaktoolik where he took the serum
    and turned around, heading back for Nome. He carried the serum back
    over Norton Sound with the thermometer 30 degrees below zero. Seppala
    had to face into a merciless gale and in the darkness retraced his
    route across the uncertain ice. When Seppala turned the serum over to
    Charlie Olson in Golovin, after carrying it 91 miles, he and his team,
    including the famous lead dog, Togo, had traveled a total of 260 miles.

    Olson turned the serum over to Gunnar Kaasen, who took it the remaining 53 miles to Nome.”

    The rest of that story can be found here
    The recitation of those mushers’ names, the sections of the trail each
    covered and the distances, never fails to move me.  My eyes grow
    misty just as they do when I hear the Alaska Flag Song.  I know
    descendants of some of those men, and one of the original serum
    carriers is another of my personal Heroes of the Trail, along with
    Norman Vaughan, Martin Buser, Libby Riddles, Dee Dee Jonrowe, and Danger the Dog Yard Cat

    Leonhard Seppala, the pre-eminent hero of the Serum Run, was
    never happy about the fact that Balto, running in Kaasen’s team, got
    all the glory because he was in on the final leg of the run. 
    Seppala (photo below) said, “What bothers me the
    most, is the fact that Balto, that miserable dog, got the honor for
    Togo’s achievement. By doing so, Balto was known as ‘the best sled dog
    in Alaska’, even though he had never been on a winning team! I know,
    cause I owned and raised both ‘Balto and Togo.”

    Balto
    has a statue in Central Park in NYC.  His stuffed carcass is on
    display in a museum somewhere in the Lower 48.  Togo’s stuffed
    form, shown in the top photo above, along with photos of his musher,
    Leonhard Seppala (left), is on display in the Iditarod’s museum in
    Wasilla.  I think the lower shot, of a living Togo with his race
    trophies, looks better.

    Now for the promised explanation of “restart”:  The “start” of
    the race in Anchorage is ceremonial.  The night before, dump
    trucks haul snow from the city lots where it is dumped for storage
    after being plowed off the streets.  They spread it on 4th Avenue
    and the teams mush a few blocks for the cameras and the town
    crowd.  If memory serves, there have been a few years when there
    was enough snow to allow the mushers to drive their teams from there to
    Wasilla, old Joe Redington’s hometown, for the “restart”, the actual
    beginning of the race.  Usually, however, they just load the dogs
    back into the compartmented boxes on the backs of their trucks and haul
    them to Wasilla.

    What with global warming and all, in recent years, the restart was
    moved a little north and farther up this valley, to Willow, the town
    most people think is where we live:  Greyfox, Doug and I. 
    It’s our postal address, yes, but we live elsewhere, closer (as Raven
    flies, but not in road miles) to Talkeetna.  This year, the
    Restart is going to have to go even farther north and higher in
    elevation, just like those truckloads of Anchoraguans who go by here
    pulling the snowmachine trailers.

    The heading up top on this entry is a link to the trail
    committee’s website.  If you are not already bored and burned out
    on Iditarod, you’ll probably enjoy it.  Last year, I got a kick
    out of the webcams at some checkpoints and on Front Street in
    Nome.  I watched them set up the Burled Arch at the finish
    line and haul in their truckloads of snow.  They do plow the
    snow from city streets even in Nome, y’know?

    If you go to the Iditarod website, don’t miss   the race behind the race, my favorite page there.

  • Monochromatic day–
    well, nearly mono….



    We were overdue (yet again) for today’s water run.  Slick roads and slippery path down to the waterhole motivated us to delay as long as we could.  Yesterday, when Doug had the best excuse ever not to wash dishes (no water), I knew it was time to load the mutt (an ice-chipping tool like a hoe handle with a froe blade) and the kitty-litter can (to scatter for traction) into the car with the jugs and buckets, and go.  He was still alert and I was already up and dressed when it got light enough out there to make a safe run to the waterhole.  Before stopping at the spring, we went to the general store at Camp Caswell for Greyfox’s daily newspaper (he has to have that crossword puzzle) and a video (K-19, the Widowmaker).   


    I always try to get a few “scenic” shots for you, on these trips.  The ones above and at right were the best that I could manage this time.  This is not scenic weather.  It has rained off and on for at least a week.  People around here are missing our snow.  Roofs are leaking, outhouses are flooded, the winter’s dog droppings are thawing and stinking.  My neighbors groan and say, “It looks like April.”  We all wonder if we will soon start getting “normal” weather and then this slick layer of new ice will form a slip-face on every snowclad slope:  avalanche time.  Avalanche abatement crews have been triggering slides along the highway skirting Cook Inlet in the mornings after drive time, and clearing the stuff off the highway before the evening rush hour.


    We need not have bothered with the mutt and the kitty grit.  Our procrastination worked in our favor this time.  The neighbors had already scattered a variety of things to improve traction.  We saw sand, gravel, ashes, kitty litter, Pro-Mix (the weed growers’ favorite planting medium), and potatoes. 


    *?! I dunno; your guess is as good as mine!?*


    Someone had cut steps in the ice on the steepest part of the slope, cutting them with the proper scooped-out upward-slanting steps so that one does not slip off.  The problem with that, Doug pointed out as he splashed down the steps on his first trip, is that the hollows thus created are now full of water.  Next time the temp dips below freezing, each step will be a flat, level, slick surface, waiting for an inattentive, unsuspecting victim.  More than one of us in the ‘hood has had to drag him or herself out of the little creek at the bottom of that slope.


    Water is puddling and flowing along the shoulder of the highway as well as in the ditches.  Driveways have culverts across them to allow for runoff, but ice builds up in the culverts in weather like we’ve been having.  I noticed on my way down to the spring that one driveway had a freshly excavated runoff channel cut across it.  That’s gotta be inconvenient when you want to drive in the driveway, eh?


    I’ve been hearing urban and small-stream flood warnings for the lower parts of our valley, but so far this end of the valley isn’t flooding yet.


    Every packed or paved area that hasn’t been sanded is as slick as…  we have a number of colorful local phrases to describe slickitude:  slick as snot on a doorknob, as shit on glass… it’s slick out there.  I gave us a little thrill as we crossed the highway on our first mission this morning, to take warm water to the feral cats at the old place over there.  In 4WD, all four wheels were spinning as I eased away from the stop sign.  When the front set of wheels finally hit the plowed and sanded pavement, we lurched forward with a squeak and a jerk ( I’m the squeak).


    Doug’s dad, Charley, was offered a great coat and he took it for Doug.  Doug loves it.  It’s a size 51 extra long, and Doug isn’t.  I’m not sure of his size, but I’d guess it’s a bit smaller than a 51.  It is a splendid doublebreasted trenchcoat with a warm fleecy zip-out lining which even has its own soft fleecy collar that flips out over the shell and provides snazzy contrast to accent my boy’s smiling face.  The coat’s shell is a good match for the dark gray boots Doug picked out for Xmas.  Subarctic chic!


    I noticed before I ever got to the highway this morning that I was enjoying this water run more than I usually do.  I said to Doug, “I need to get out more.  I’m having more fun than the occasion warrants.”  We skated around on the slick-as-anything surface of the turnout before getting down to business.  He commented that as I get healthier and stronger, he’s feeling weaker.  I realized that I need to feed him better.  Since I stopped cooking family meals because they won’t eat my diet foods and it’s too tempting to cook what I can’t eat, Doug subsists on snacks and the occasional sandwich that Greyfox tosses in his direction.  I’ll have to suck it up, use some willpower and start watching his nutritional status.  It won’t do to let him fall ill, what with the old fart and me needing his muscle so much.


    One of my favorite areas for scenic shots near the spring is the broad muskeg beyond the tree line out of frame on the right in this shot.  I started over there, but even on the shoulder where there was a scattering of sand, it was treacherously slippery.  I’d have needed a kitty litter trail to cross the rinklike surface farther back.  I opted not to.


    While Doug was filling buckets, I had an insightful flash regarding my better-than-warranted mood:  I’m in a manic swing.  This is payoff time for the bipolar.  I’ve never had the slightest difficulty knowing when I’m depressed, but this early awareness of an episode of mania is new.  It doesn’t detract from my enjoyment of the state and it could help me avoid some of the more bizarre maniacal manifestations.


    Yay!  Way to go, Me!


  • Light, sweet, gluten-free quick bread


    I have been experimenting with gluten-free baking, trying to devise a recipe that my whole family will like.  Until this latest effort, none of my muffins was acceptable to Doug or Greyfox.  Unfortunately (for them, but maybe to my advantage), the previous attempts so put them off that neither of them would try this latest batch. 


    Too bad… the tapioca starch and xanthan gum in these muffins make them sweeter and puffier than any others I’ve done, and I left out the coarse, grainy flours such as amaranth and buckwheat.  My recipe has only the minimum amount of honey needed to allow them to brown.  Those for whom extra carbs are not a problem could sweeten them more and these would be acceptable to just about anyone, even people with no experience of gluten-free foods.  The combination of amino acids in the legume, rice and corn flours here provides a complete protein.


    Place oven rack in center position and preheat oven to 425°F.  Have 12-cup muffin pan ready, lightly oiled or lined with paper cupcake cups.  The batter will be thick and stiff and already rising before it goes into the oven.  I recommend quick handling for best results.


    In a large mixing bowl, combine (whisk together until well blended):



    1 cup garbanzo and/or fava bean flour
    1 cup rice flour (white or brown–brown is more nutritious, white is prettier and makes a softer, less grainy texture)
    1/2 cup corn flour
    1/4 cup tapioca flour (tapioca starch)
    1 cup nonfat dry milk (optional for those intolerant to dairy–if you omit the dry milk, substitute goat milk, soy milk, rice milk, oat milk, etc., for the water, below)
    1 1/2 tsp. salt
    2 Tbsp. baking powder
    1 Tbsp. xanthan gum


    In a separate bowl, lightly beat



    2 large eggs, then add:
    1/4 cup vegetable oil or melted butter (my preference is a light-flavored olive oil)
    2 Tbsp. honey
    2 cups cold water


    Make a “well” in the center of the dry ingredients, add the liquid, and stir just enough to moisten the flours.  If you want to add nuts or dried fruit, etc., now is the time.


    Spoon batter into baking cups and bake at 425° for about 15 minutes.  Makes 12 muffins.



     

  • Quiet heroism…


    Anyone who pushes through obstacles and adversity to display commitment and excellence is a hero to me.


    My neighbor Dee Dee Jonrowe qualifies in many ways.  Back in the eighties, when Libby Riddles won the Iditarod Trail Sled Dog Race and then Susan Butcher started a streak that made it look as if no man would ever win again, Dee Dee was out there, usually running well back with the pack.  Then she and her dogs got better and better, faster and faster.  I’m not the sort of fan who memorizes stats.  I just know she has been racing a long time and had a few recent decent finishes.


    Then she had a run of hard times.  Her truck was wrecked, she was hurt and a family member killed, but she mushed on.  After last year’s race, and a run in the Mount Marathon foot race, she was diagnosed with breast cancer.  As it says in the article linked below: 


    “DeeDee Jonrowe’s memory is shot, and so are her taste buds. For a while, she was so weak she couldn’t close her hands into a fist.  But atop her head is a fuzzy coating of newly emerging hair, a look trendy enough that a stranger recently mistook it for a hip haircut.  Two weeks after completing a grueling course of chemotherapy to combat breast cancer, Jonrowe, 49, said she is climbing out of a long ordeal that included a double mastectomy, treatments that lasted longer than originally anticipated and a loss of strength and stamina that limited her ability to function as one of Alaska’s leading dog mushers.  And now she’s ready for another challenge: running the 2003 Iditarod Trail Sled Dog Race.”


    Anchorage Daily News | Jonrowe fights through cancer for Iditarod run


    Go Dee Dee!

  • Nuttier and Nuttier


    Anchorage Daily News | Snowmachiner opens fire on reindeer at farm


    Three animals die after shooter on snowmobile opens fire at farm


    Two more reindeer die from shooting


    Before my slippery trip to the outhouse yesterday, it was on my mind to share the above story with you here.  What with all my slipping and sliding, it slipped my mind.


    My mind is awash with comments on the news stories, baffled, dismayed comments speculating on what might motivate someone to do this.  I’d be surprised if alcohol wasn’t involved.  Most of the major atrocities committed by snowmachiners, and many of the “accidents” they cause, and that they and their innocent victims suffer and die from, involve alcohol.  Like boating, this recreational activity too often involves intoxication.


    My mind is awash, and so, today, is the outhouse.  I’m not going out there for a while.  In this household, it is back to the honey bucket for a while, until the water level subsides.  The rain has continued for more than 36 hours.  Last night as I was drifting off to sleep I caught some bits of conversation between Doug and Greyfox, about the flooded outhouse.  It is an annual event, usually coming in April or May, when breakup and the runoff from melted snow proceed faster than the ground can soak up the water.


    Yesterday, some of you commented on the difficulties of living with an outhouse in the cold environment of Alaska.  Actually, in one of life’s amusing little ironies, the cold of Alaska’s climate is one major reason so many of us here have outhouses.  Plumbing and septic systems tend to freeze, pipes burst, etc.  Every winter I’ve been here, I’ve heard stories of people burning their houses down trying to thaw frozen pipes.  My friend Jim Kloss of Radio Free Talkeetna rhapsodizes about the joys of outhouses, and I must admit the man has some valid points.  When carefully placed and well maintained, an outhouse causes far less water pollution than a standard flush toilet… think about it.  We’re environmentally friendly, here. 


    When floods come, all bets are off.  Sewer systems, septic systems and outhouses, alike, supply contamination to flood waters.  No matter how you deal with it, it’s all shit.  If I have to deal with it, I prefer having it frozen solid–much less messy and unpleasant that way.


    UPDATE:  On a more pleasant note, Greyfox has blogged about the Willow Winter Carnival where he spent the past weekend, and I helped him post some great photos of a previous Carnival.